Nestled in the heart of West Virginia lies Fairmont, a city often hailed as the spiritual birthplace of the pepperoni roll—a true Appalachian and Rust Belt delicacy with deep ties to the region's mining heritage. This unassuming yet beloved snack is said to have been invented here, though its origins remain wrapped in the folklore that clings to this simple yet delectable creation. In an article for Eater, Danny Palumbo delves into why this working-class food has captured hearts across the state and guides readers through some of the best spots to savor authentic pepperoni rolls today.
A common tale among West Virginians traces the roll's creation back to a Sicilian immigrant who once worked in the area's bustling coal mines before opening a restaurant in Fairmont. The region drew workers from every corner of the globe, including large numbers of Italians, who made up roughly 30% of West Virginia’s foreign-born population in the early 1900s. It’s no leap of faith to imagine that such cultural fusion might have birthed this quintessential dish.
Regardless of where it truly began, the pepperoni roll swiftly cemented itself as one of West Virginia’s most cherished culinary symbols. While Palumbo highlights versions featuring slices of pepperoni, purists insist that sticks of pepperoni are non-negotiable. Having spent 15 years in West Virginia myself and indulging in countless rolls, I can attest that stick pepperoni reigns supreme—though sliced is still a solid choice. If you're feeling indulgent, mozzarella is the cheese of choice, but under no circumstances should tomato sauce find its way inside; that would be heresy.
Like other meat pies, pepperoni rolls cater to the practical demands of labor-intensive environments—they’re portable, filling, and easy to enjoy in less-than-comfortable settings. Surprisingly, I discovered only six pepperoni roll recipes in the EYB Library, with just two accessible online, including the version by Sara Bir on Simply Recipes, shown above. If you have access to the Cook’s Illustrated/Cook’s Country recipe, consider it your go-to—it’s that good.
Despite their simplicity, pepperoni rolls embody more than just flavor—they represent a slice of history, culture, and community. Whether you're a native or simply passing through, there's something undeniably comforting about biting into a warm roll, savoring the tangy pepperoni, and letting nostalgia take over. And who knows? Maybe someday Fairmont will become synonymous not just with coal mining but also with this beloved snack, a testament to the resilience and creativity of the people who call it home.