In summer, when grapes enter a vigorous growing season, their pruning techniques are more stringent than other fruit trees, and the summer shear quality has a greater impact on fruit quality and yield, and can be carried out from the spring to the deciduous period. The following points should be made technically.

First, after sprouting buds of grapes, the merits of the buds should be selected, leaving a robust, good position, and useless buds removed by hand, called the bud. The buds are mostly grown before the shoots begin to grow. Due to the heterogeneity of the buds, the buds that germinate early and full round buds are often flower buds, and the buds that sprout late are mostly buds or poorly developed flower buds. Should erase the weak buds, dense buds, old sprouts useless buds. When 2 or 3 buds germinate on section 1, the main buds are left to sprout.

Second, fixed tip should be clearly identified when there is no inflorescence and inflorescence when the situation. Remove stunted, dense, and small inflorescences. The number of sticks will depend on the type of shelf, species, tree vigor, and planned output. Under normal circumstances, a single fence can be left 10 centimeters to a new shoot, double fence 10 to 15 centimeters to leave a new shoot, scaffolding about 20 new shoots per square meter is appropriate. If the result is too low and the plant load is insufficient, in addition to leaving all the vines behind, depending on the degree of density of the shelves, a certain amount of vines must be left. In order to ensure a certain amount of growth in arid regions, it is sometimes necessary to remove some of the vines.

Third, picking the heart at the beginning of topping can inhibit the prolonged growth of the shoots, make the flowering neat, pollination good, and increase the fruit setting rate. In the later stage, it can improve the ventilation and light transmission conditions of the grape frame, promote flower bud differentiation and fruit development, enrich the branches and increase the yield. Picking method: the results of new shoots topping, generally between the beginning of the flower to full flowering period, that is to stay in the inflorescence above 6 to 8 leaves and pick off the tip of the young shoots; main vines to extend the vines to grow to 16 to 20, ready to vine When growing to 8 to 10 leaves, pick up.

Fourth, the loquat leaves in the summer when cutting grapes, we must get the black fox disease leaves removed to prevent the spread of infection. At the same time, the old leaves that have begun to yellow and lose their photosynthetic function will be removed to facilitate ventilation and reduce the occurrence of diseases.

5. The sparse inflorescences can adjust the load of the grape plants, increase the fruit setting rate, and make the fruit pieces neat and the ear tight. In the method of flowering, weak and excessive inflorescences are eliminated two weeks before the grape is blooming. In general, strong branches may not be sparsely inflorescences, and weak branches and leaves may be less inflorescences. After fruiting, deficient undergrowth should also be removed.

Sixth, to the auxiliary shoots With the growth of new shoots of grapes, the summer shoots between each leafhopper can germinate into secondary shoots at any time. The treatment of these secondary shoots is to remove all the secondary shoots below the inflorescence from the base after the secondary shoots are germinated, leaving 1 to 2 leaves topping at or above the inflorescence. The tip of the shoot near the top of the shoot can leave 2-3 leaves topping to reduce winter bud germination. Also cut off the development of excess branches, hidden buds, too dense and weak branches.

7. In addition to the tendrils, if they are left untreated and left on the rack, they will inconvenience the correct introduction, harvesting, cutting, and shearing of the new shoots, and the tendrils will also consume a lot of nutrients. In concrete summer work, the just-stretched tendrils should be removed in time with summer shears.

VIII. Tying New Shoots When grape shoots reach 30 to 40 cm in length, they need to be tied to the surface of the rack to be as evenly as possible to facilitate ventilation and light transmission and avoid being blown by wind. In order to make full use of space, one third of the new shoots can be left unattached and left to grow freely. With the continuous growth of new shoots, the new shoots must be divided into 3 to 4 times. Cross-bundling is not allowed. Generally should be tied obliquely to ease the growth potential. Apply tape when binding the vines to prevent the shoots from rubbing them with direct contact with the wire.

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