Artificial cultivation of green turtles
Hydrafacial Machine,Skin Moisturizing Device,Skin Rejuvenation Device,Hydrafacial Injection Equipment Changzhou Timerein Biotechnology Co. , Ltd. , https://www.timereinbiotech.com
June 28 11:13:11, 2025
The green turtle is a term used to describe turtles that naturally grow filamentous algae on their shells. This relationship is a form of partial symbiosis between aquatic turtles and algae. When environmental conditions are favorable, the calcium-rich shell of the turtle becomes an ideal surface for algae to take root. In clear water rivers, especially around wooden or concrete boats, you can often find large patches of base algae growing beneath the waterline. These algae can be collected, cleaned, and placed into a glass tank filled with clean water. A small amount of agricultural compound fertilizer is added, along with proper lighting and regular water changes to encourage continuous growth. This process marks the first step in cultivating green turtles: collecting and growing the algae.
Once quality algae are established, the next step is selecting the right turtle species. The most suitable is the authentic green-eared turtle, which develops the best green hair. Other species like common turtles can also be used, though they tend to be less valuable. The olecranon turtle, known for its eagle-like mouth, is another good option with a high success rate, although it lacks heat tolerance. The four-eyed spotted turtle, with its unique eye spots, is also used for breeding, but it struggles with cold winter temperatures. The yellow-throated turtle is considered the most ideal for cultivation due to its adaptability.
Choosing the right location is crucial for artificial breeding. While some hobbyists may raise small numbers on balconies or windowsills, professional breeders need a quiet, elevated site with no pollution, good water supply, adequate light, and ventilation. Fences should be built around the area to prevent escape, and shade structures like vines or reed curtains are recommended in summer. Containers such as pottery jars, enamel buckets, plastic containers, or glass tanks can all be used. Pottery jars are particularly effective because they provide a smooth surface for algae attachment and keep the water clear. However, they are not transparent, so the turtle’s plastron won’t develop green hair. Plastic buckets are more affordable and translucent, allowing for longer green hairs to grow. Glass cylinders offer excellent light transmission, promoting even growth across the entire turtle body.
Water quality is essential for successful cultivation. Streams and springs are ideal due to their mineral content and low organic matter. Tap water can be used after dechlorination—either by letting it sit in sunlight for 3–5 days or adding sodium thiosulfate. Well water in southern regions is often similar in quality to spring water and is also suitable.
Timing is key when inoculating turtles. The best periods are spring and autumn, especially early spring, when turtles are still dormant. Summer is less ideal due to high temperatures, which can inhibit algae growth. Winter is also not recommended due to long dormancy periods. During early spring, when temperatures range from 8–15°C, algae spores attach easily to the turtle's shell, and they begin to grow rapidly as summer approaches.
Before inoculation, turtles should be well-fed with animal-based food for several days, then fasted for two days. They are then soaked in a diluted potassium permanganate solution, brushed, and dried. Turtles weighing over 100 grams require gentle brushing to prepare the shell for algae growth. Algae are cut into small pieces and mixed with a nutrient solution containing vitamins, calcium, and sugar. The mixture is then transferred into a glass jar with enough water to cover the turtle slightly.
Daily care involves feeding small fish, shrimp, earthworms, or lean meat at about 5% of the turtle’s weight. Feeding frequency varies by season—every 4 days in spring and fall, every 2 days in summer, and not at all during hibernation.
For shipping, turtles must stop eating three days before transport. They are washed, brushed, and wrapped carefully to protect the algae. The head is covered with one layer of cloth, while the back is folded multiple times to maintain humidity. Each turtle is placed in a separate box with ventilation holes to ensure safe transport. The wrapping cloth should remain moist to support algae survival during transit.